"On the Trail"

The Journals from the Road

May 1:   Attack of the African Bees at Uxmal - Merida, Yucatan

Video:   Ruins of Uxmal
Video:   PeaceBike Pan of Uxmal and Site of African Bee Attack
To save time, download videos as you read the journal!

This morning I was up early and at the great ruins of Uxmal by 8:30, a new ruins record. I really came into Uxmal not knowing what to expect, not having seen any postcards or really having read up on it in my guidebook. It was very impressive. I took photos as I meandered about the temple of the Magician and the courtyard ruins which may have been an academic institution. Since it was so early Uxmal felt like I was the first one to discover it. I decided to play up this fantasy a bit and headed off the main paths to a more secluded mound.

When I got to this mound it was clear that it, too, was an unrestored pyramid. There were a few worn stones making a trail to the top of the mound so I figured that others had made their way to the top as well. When I got to the top I enjoyed 4.2 seconds of tranquility, gazing at the other pyramids and temples rising like storm waves above a sea of brush and trees. As I was lifting my camera to take a video a large insect slammed into my glasses. I was very glad that I had my glasses on rather than having this angry creature stuck in my eye. I swatted it away but hardly had a chance to regain my balance when it zoomed in again for another attack, this time buzzing into my hair. I clubbed myself with my Lonelyplanet guidebook repeatedly on the head but to no avail. The insect of terror had only warmed up. At this time I should have started my video camera rolling and sent the results into Funniest Home Videos because I am sure they would have given PeaceBike a 10,000 dollar grant for this next scene.

I continued to strike myself silly on the head, as the insect, with lazer precision guidance continued to fly into my scalp and bumble against my ears. I managed to hit it 3 or 4 times but it just bounced right back like a possessed, flying, ball of lint. I realized that I had met my match and was quickly moving from fight to flight response. Unfortunately my only options, being on the top of a pyramid, were 1) true flight to the bottom of the pyramid or 2) stumbling down the pyramid and with hopes of arrival at the bottom feet-first. Due to the multiple, self-inflicted blows to the head and these to poor choices I vaccilated and hesitated, jumping and running and circling. Looking back on the moment now, I am very glad that there were not a lot of other tourists there. They might have assummed this was a neo-mayan dance of early morning praise and elation. But elated I was not, as I ran around the top of this pyramid with the insect of persistence trying to attach itself to me. Each time it would land I would swat it off with my book. Then, suddenly I felt a sharp pain on my hand and knew I had been stung. I was in a full adrenaline response now and I think that signaled the highly aggressive beast to call for back up. Back up came in the form of a small hoard of similar buzzing beasts. When I realized that there were more than one, images of adrenaline ejection tubes, and memories of my dad covered with bee sting welts flooded my mind, and I forced myself to flee down the pyramid. I stumbled, camera in one hand, guidebook in the other, down the pyramid of steep, brushy steps, some 3 steps at a time, jumping, and hollering. Chanting to myself, "Easy, easy!", knowing that I could easily sprain an ankle during my retreat. When I got down to level ground I ran like a mad-dog and finally got away from the pyramid of winged predators. I spit on my hand, added some dust, and rubbed it around the sting. I could soon feel it sucking out the poison. I decided from then on to stick to the main paths. Enough adventure for one day.

Later, at the top of the Temple of the Macaws I spotted a sign that said "Peligro Abeja Africanas". I was sure that this is what I had run into, African bees. I warned a few other tourists, snapped some photos, and headed back to my bike, waiting happily for me at the entrance.

I spent the afternoon sitting under a shade tree, waiting for a bus to Merida. I passed the time by talking with a traveler from Japan, chatting with a couple from Germany, and writing a few postcards. I met a family from Japan there and enjoyed a good conversation with Ken and Yasuko, and gave little Nina a ride on PeaceForce One. A few minutes after 2:30 the bus arrived and my new friends helped me load bike and gear under the bus. The trip to Merida was relaxing.

I had met a guy named Wes in Palenque who had studied in Merida. He said I should look up his housemate Pablo and ask if I could stay for the night. That is exactly what I did. After a stop at the market for some rotten pineapple and watermelon I found Pablo and his partner Jody. I introduced myself and they very kindly welcomed me in.

Tonight I went to a cultural dance in the center plaza and came back to the house of Pablo and Jody for a restful night in a hammock.

All is well that ends well,

TAD

Uxmal Photos

Nina's Bike Ride