Jul

Monday, July 23, 2001: "Water Makes You Rust" - Tuscany, Italy

Frank here…

The day started rather early. Gabrielle got a bit authoritative over his younger brother Danielle. It seems that he forgot that they were not yet at work (they both work with the army). Gabrielle has a higher position to Danielle who folds parachutes. At first, folding parachutes sounded mundane, but then I realized that people's lives would depend on these parachutes. In fact, if one did not work properly, Danielle would probably be put in jail.

We said our goodbyes at the train station after a couple of cornettas. I was hoping to catch a train to Grosseto where Fernanda, a friend that I made in New Zealand would pick me up. I was getting real good at reading the 'Partenze" (departures list) and saw that several trains were leaving in the next few hours. So, I went to the ticket booth and started to speak and would start with "Scusi, parlo poco Italiano…" (Excuse me, I speak a little Italian…). This would be in hopes that the person would speak slower, more clearly and simpler to me. I asked her for a ticket for the next train to Grosseto which she told me was not until 11:00am. I did not understand. I thought I read the Partenze correctly and was expecting one to go soon (at about 7:45am). Well after some confusing discussion, I started to babble and realized that some words that I was saying made absolutely no sense. She then said in frustration (and in Italian) "You tell me that you speak a little Italian? You could speak non-stop until 6:00pm if you wanted."

"Sheesh, take it easy lady!" I thought to myself. Anyway I got on the next train just after 8:00am which was the faster and more expensive option. The train was much more organized than the others. I guess that is what you get for a higher price.

Since I have left from Agropoli, I have only been carrying one of my front Arkel bike panniers. Believe it or not, I felt like I had too much stuff. After riding with my bike for so long, only carrying one bag along seemed so simple and easy.

When I got to Grosseto, I had to wait over an hour for Fernanda. Fortunately, she had a mobile cell phone so I was able to get in contact with her. She and her travelling companion, Paolo, picked me up, then after another hour of hanging around we picked up her friend from Australia, Julia.

We headed to her parents' place for pranza (lunch) which was great. The view as we drove up to their community (I forget the name - maybe somewhere near Sovana)…

I love pasta and great conversation. Her father (who suffered a terrible accidental blow to his head at work earlier in his life) was quite a philosopher, but I did not understand all that he said. Fernanda then asked me if I could understand what he had said because he was speaking mostly in local dialect. Whew! I thought that my non understanding was due to my lack of Italian knowledge, but it was actually due to his manner of speaking only partially Italian and the rest dialect. I was not yet well versed enough in Italian to realize that he was speaking a dialect. I might be able to decipher a dialect in Sicily but not here, much farther north. Regardless, we kept talking about life and ethical stuff.

After lunch we went to pick up another Australian friend, Nathan. He has been touring by bus and train for several months and is visiting Fernanda while he is in Italy. She toured us around the beautiful Tuscany which has many towns that are perched on top of mountains. The valley views are magnificent as are the sites of these small medieval towns that sit high on rocky outcrops. We visited the Castello Banfi where they have a huge olive press on display. Next was the Castle at Montancino where we just missed a wine and jazz festival that finished the night before. Then we drove through more twisty and windy roads that opened up to the old church San Antimo. The monks often put on a vocal musical show about the time that we got there in late afternoon. However, they were not to be seen because they all, believe it or not, went to the beach! Hey, I didn't know that monks could have fun!

At the monastery I met a bunch of teen-age cyclists who were touring scouts. Cool! We had a nice chat and I told them about my trip and PeaceBike. We were all so excited to meet each other.

Our next stop was at Fernanda's home in Selva. She was preparing it as a place to rent for tourists. In the meantime, Nathan and I were able to test it. It was very well decorated and comfortable, but there was no hot water until the heater got fixed. But, who cares; her hospitality more than made up for it.

While Nathan rested, Fernanda and I met Paolo for cena (pronounced chena - means dinner). We had a great time. Paolo was quite a witty guy. I had another great meal - pasta with shrimp, but not the way we normally see it in North America. This was the entire shrimp. When I asked for a glass of water I was jokingly told that I should have wine because water makes you rust. Fernanda told me earlier that I would probably get that response if I ordered water. It is a very common saying in these parts.

She and Paolo are going to open a tourist business for tours in the Tuscany area. I think that they will do a great job. They are very knowledgeable of their area and very personable. Thanks for the great evening.

-I didn't know that monks could have fun.

-Frank Pollari

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