"On the Trail"
(Note: After Penny departed for the USA from Chennai, Tad returned to Kodaikanal, and the Kodaikanal International School, to spend time with new and old friends, play frisbee, and do a few more PeaceBike presentations.)
September 15, 2001: Kodaikanal, India - Down the Ghat road (Tad)
Hello friends,
Well, after several days in Kodaikanal the big "D Day", for departure, finally arrived. In the morning I packed, wrote some good-bye notes, and even got a chance to record some songs from Shakira (from Colombia) and Mana (from Mexico). Eric, one of my fantastic hosts in Kodai, lived many years in Guatemala. I was so thrilled when I saw that his music collection included these singers. Eric and I went to lunch at the Astoria Hotel for a 24 rupee rice meal. We sat next to a newlywed couple and got a chance to talk about India, the U.S and what just happened in New York City and Washington DC. After lunch I finished up the last bit of packing and then said goodbye to Eric. It was so great to be able to have an open-ended offer of hospitality. I left not sure if I might return soon. I had a bad sore throat and was wondering if this was just the beginning of a cold. He told me I was free to come back and I thanked him for the offer. What a great fellow!
While in Kodai, a gal named Janet Love, a writer, teacher, and cycling fan adopted me as her cycling buddy. On our first ride, when Penny was here too, we made a trek into a forest of poplar-like trees. Later, we did a couple of early morning rides and more recently we planned to ride out of Kodai and on the plains for a few days. Janet would then return to school and I would continue on by myself.
Rolling up to the gate with my fully loaded bike was tough for me. It meant for me that I was leaving this place that had, again, become a home for me. I have been so blessed by the people here, those who invited me to their homes, or introduced themselves as old friends of the family from past trips, or shared a frisbee with me on a Sunday afternoon. Having Penny leave and now leaving this family made it tougher to head out and I was glad to be joined by Janet as she was understanding company exactly when I needed it.
We had planned to meet at 1:30 but then I asked for 2:00 and after a few pictures and a few goodbyes it was time to go. We planned to head down the main ghat road until the turn off for the Palani ghat. We had chosen the Palani ghat because there was supposed to be much less traffic and it included a section on the level and even a bit of uphill. Usually I don't go looking for the uphill but after lots and lots of downhill it can give a rest to one’s upper body and let the brake pads cool off.
The road was beautiful. We had both expected parts to be in bad shape but found it paved throughout with some parts nice and wide. We stopped for tea at a tea stall a few kms after the Palani ghat turn-off. While we sipped out of stainless steel cups this woman pointed to me and said something in Tamil. A fellow nearby broadly translated with the word "marriage". I replied, "Who me? Oh, not today". Everyone seemed to get a kick out of the little dialogue, making up the half that was said in the other language.
On our bikes and down through the "shoala"...
We passed a sign that said Tiger Shoala and I kept on whispering "thank-you G.O.D." for the beauty all around me, flying by. We stopped near a group of monkeys and Janet took a few photos.
We seemed to be just missing the rain as we would hear thunder rumble just over the most recently crossed hill.
At one turn two guys on a motorcycle came up the road, flying around a corner very wide and came close to Janet. I assumed the driver would correct but he didn't and continued to ride on the wrong side of the road, directly toward me. I swerved in disbelief of his carelessness and he swerved too and actually nicked my mirror. My reaction was anger at such blatantly careless driving. GRRRRrrrrr". Later came gratitude that nothing more than a repositioning of my mirror had occurred.
At a bit before six we got down on the plains. We both put it in high gear as we had about 40 minutes before dark and about 13 kms left till Palani. It was nice to be on the flat but I don't like riding at dusk much. At about 6:30 we arrived in Palani, took a left turn at the first junction, and, with the help of some locals found the Soompar (something like that) hotel. Just seventeen to twenty-seven seconds after we got the bikes under the porch of the hotel the sky let loose. We felt so lucky to have just made it before dark and before the downpour.
After settling into a large room with two beds and lots of extra space for the bikes we headed out for some dinner. We were treated royally until filled. Then we headed back to the hotel. It was easy to see that Palani was a religious center as there were a number of holy men dressed in orange and a number of shops selling flowers, incense, and pictures, items used in worship. We asked when the temple opened and found out it opened at six am. We decided to walk up the hill to the temple at 6:00 and then start our day's ride.
On the road again with gratitude and anticipation,
TAD
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